Would return in a heartbeat

My girlfriend and I wound through the jungle on an increasingly bumpy dirt road, wondering with every bounce and sharp turn, "where the hell are we?" Our driver, Ricardo, seemed to have little trouble navigating the unpaved, one lane track, until we got to a fork in the road with both "tines" taking an upward turn that surely only 4-wheel drive could handle. He actually backed up a bit for a running start and surged up, coaxing from the 8 passenger van every horse it could spare. When we arrived at the Hacienda, the sun was sinking low over the not-too-distant sea and a faint breeze tickled the fronds of the palm trees overhead. Up above a condor wheeled about, looking for a late meal. We spilled from the van, weary from 16 hours of travel, and were met immediately by Steve, the co-owner. He showed us to our casita and said, "you must have a thousand questions. Get yourself settled and come on up when you're ready. I'll build you a margarita." So began our stay at Hacienda de la Costa, easily the most charming and relaxing retreats you will find in Sayulita. Ours was one of 5 suites -- the smallest, actually, and the only one available when we booked. It was all we could have asked for and then some. Three ceiling fans and plenty of windows kept the place cool all day and night (ours was the only one of the 5 suites without AC) and an ample kitchen afforded us the opportunity to prepare our own guacamole, drinks, whatever. Steve and Terri are fantastic owners, always there when you need them, available for a casual chat or the inside scoop when you want it and then leaving you to your quiet time when the lounge chairs at the pool were calling. They also whipped up amazing breakfasts every morning and keep a fully stocked "honor system" bar poolside. Steve knows just about everyone in Sayulita and beyond, so if you're looking for looking day adventures or the best restaurants in town, let him bend your ear. While Hacienda is a couple miles out of town, that was part of the appeal for us. 10 maximum guests kept it quiet and low-key and the only sounds to wake you would be the braying of a passing donkey and the exotic songs of the birds. Steve knows all the cabbies and is great about arranging for the 10 minute rides to and from town for the guests. More mobile guests went for the walk into town, which could take 30+ minutes but was worth every flora- and fauna-filled step along the dirt road. (Don't even worry about safety. It's not an issue. In fact, I dropped my iPhone in the backseat of the cab on a return trip from town and didn't realize it until just before turning in. The next day Steve called the cab driver, who had found my phone and was holding on to it for a safe return. It's not just luck...) Some other details if you're still on the fence: - you can't beat the price - booking is a breeze. Terri is super-prompt about writing back - suites are clean, cool and fun to wake up in - your own private beach is but a 10 minute walk away. towels, umbrellas and boogie boards provided. We will definitely be staying here again!